[Ciao]

"È la gaia pioggerella a far crescer l'erba bella."
Translation: "It's the merry drizzle that makes grass grow fine."

4.1.10

Rain, rain, go away...

The clouds here move so fast and as we constantly look up at towers and ancient buildings, we get a sense of vertigo every time before our eyes adjust. Needless to say, the sky isn't moving nearly as fast any more. The weather has turned to grey. Two roman days later, we set out on a mission to avoid the cold, cold rain. We nearly sprinted to the Pantheon this morning, passing by daily commerce and taking few pictures - we splurged on a new camera for Christmas and are still babying it from the weather. We passed Trajan's Baths (or what is left of them). It seems time has turned this masterpiece into a dog park. Our journey took us further into the heart of Rome, weaving through alleys and narrow streets, passing by family-owned tratorias sometimes filled with groups of men sipping café. A part of you hopes they are the mafia. Sometimes getting lost is the best way to capture the heart of a city. I'm not sure if it was because we had our heads blinded by our umbrellas or if we were constantly focused on he uneven cobblestone roads, but the rain sure makes you miss a lot. Reminiscing about the day with Amber sure makes you realize how differently you see things.

We accidentally stumbled upon Piazza Navona (one we planned to visit) when we took a wrong turn. Amber didn't recognized it from the last time she was in Rome because this time it was filled with a fair or carnival. The fountains were intricate and magnificent. Still, that didn't phase Amber's intrigue in the stockings one of the carnival vendors was selling...

Finally, the Pantheon! It was larger than I expected. The architectural history books from college do no justice to this work of art. I was in awe the entire time. For all those wondering if the oculus allows in any rain, the answer is Yes.



The unreinforced dome is supposed to create such an updraft that the rain isn't able to penetrate the opening, but I think the double 40 Roman-foot-tall doors have to be closed for that to work.

We proceeded to Campo de' Fiori to eat lunch, but again we went on a goose chase. The tourist map that we have been carrying apparently does not draw all the monuments in a correct North-South reference. So instead and walking five blocks South, we walked seven North to the Tiber River. After we found our bearings, we decided to skip the maze and walk the extra distance following the river to the piazza for lunch. Campo de' Fiori had a market going on, which we meandered after a microwaved meal. Indeed, the tourist areas actually serve microwaveable food. An unsatisfying 30 Euros later, we made an oath to find true-to-the-heart Roman food. You know, the kind that dates back to the good ol' days of emperors and gladiators. Lamb shank and bucatini all'amatriciana. Hand-made pastries and kidney-wrenching sugar bombs. We will fulfill our food lovers' desire. The hunt continues...
- ian

2 comments:

Grandma R said...

Hw exciting to see all the old buildings, Ian, you must be in seventh heaven looking at all the buildings you read about and studied while in school. It is cold here and it is supposed to really get cold later this week along with some snow. Brrrrr.. Have fun, Grandpa and Grandma R

jallen said...

I loved the Pantheon too, it may have been one of my favorite places in Rome! If you head back in that direction there is an amazing gelato shop about a two minute walk from there. It is about 1 block down the street directly across from the main entrance to the Pantheon. Amazing....seriously! :)
- Jamie