An Introduction to Sicily: Palermo

Throughout our tour of Italy, I have been continually impressed with Italy's public transportation system. Buses and trains run regularly to almost any city in Italy and are, for the most part, very fairly priced. I was even more impressed with our transport to Sicily. Because Sicily is an island just off the coast of mainland Italy, I figured transportation would be complicated. Not so! We were able to take a train the entire way! Let me explain.



We caught a train in Salerno headed to Palermo Centrale. The train, coming from Rome, was delayed for nearly two hours - an unfortunate addition to to our already incredibly long day of travel. The train from Salerno to Palermo is nine hours long! But, we had a wonderful view of both the coast and the countryside the entire journey. Once we arrived at the port on the mainland, things got pretty interesting. Our train drove, car by car, onto a ferry that took us across the sea to the island of Sicily. So, we were on a train on a ferry! I was incredibly impressed, and a little baffled by the whole situation. A very interesting experience! Luckily, we were allowed to get off the parked train and wander around the deck of the ferry for the 20 minute ride across the water. The fresh air and a shot of espresso were just what we needed to continue the four remaining hours of our trip from Porta Messina to Palermo.

Because of the two hour delay, we arrived at our B&B very late. I felt awful when the owner opened the door in her night gown and robe! But, she was very understanding. Our B&B, called Palermo Art Lincoln, had beautiful and interesting art pieces hung on every wall, and the rooms were decorated with an exotic, almost Indian feel. So much color! The dessert, I mean breakfast at the B&B is just that: dessert! Each morning, we were offered a choice of cakes, cookies, chocolate granola cereal and chocolate drizzled puff pastry. Too much of a sugar bomb in the morning for my taste. I don't know how they do it!

Thursday was our first full day in Palermo and it was gorgeous! The sun was out and the temperature was in the high 60s. Such a change from up north. The owner of our B&B provided us with all the information we needed to enjoy the most important and beautiful things in Palermo. She even told us what, and where, to eat typical Sicilian food, and then added as a side note that if we ate nothing but typical Sicilian food while we are in Sicily (12 days total), we will gain roughly 3-4 kilos, or 6-8 lbs. Oh dear! Apparently, Sicilians like to fry food. Everything, even their dessert, is fried (think cannoli)! I did notice that Sicilians are *ahem* a little larger around the middle region than many of the Italians we have encountered. Now I know why!

Thursday morning we decided to start our day at the Orto Botanico di Palermo: Palermo Botanical Gardens. We were told that these gardens are the most important in Italy, and while many Italians tend to say that about whatever happens to be in their city, this is actually accurate. The gardens are used for education and research and house at least 12,000 different species of plants! The gardens were huge and we had a wonderful time trying to guess what all the different plants were. It was amazing how many different types of plants are able to grow in the garden; there was an entire green house devoted strictly to species of cacti complete with a large "do not touch!" sign. After the Orto Botanico, we strolled down the street to Villa Giulia, a lovely public garden with quiet statues where many locals relax in the beautiful Sicilian sun. After meandering through the gardens and sitting peacefully in the center of the Villa Giulia, we headed across the street for a typical treat in Palermo: arancina bomba. An arancina is a typical Sicilian rice ball in the shape and color of an orange (the fruit), made of Arborio rice cooked in saffron, filled with ham and cheese or vegetables, dipped in a batter of bread crumbs, and then deep fried. They are incredibly delicious and heavy, but very typical in Palermo. Ian and I shared an arancina filled with funghi (mushrooms), and that was more than enough!

After our fried-filled lunch, we strolled along the boardwalk to take in the afternoon sunshine and (hopefully) walk off some of our lunch. Ian has had a cold for a few days now, so we took it easy. Thursday night, we ate at a restaurant recommended by the owner of our B&B, and again enjoyed a wonderful and typical Sicilian feast. Ian and I are really enjoying the change in cuisine here in Sicily. They seem to use more spices, and offer more variety than we found on mainland Italia.


Friday, our last full day in Palermo, we began our morning by visiting a local outdoor market called Mercato Ballaro. It was so incredibly Sicilian! Vendors were shouting across to one another, locals were swarming in front of the fish stands, there were vibrant colors everywhere, and gorgeous looking fruit stacked in heavenly displays. And everything was crazy cheap! We have grown accustomed to the incredibly high prices in the tourist-packed cities of Italy, but Sicily is much more budget-friendly. We bought some apples and bananas, a pack of pumpkin seeds to snack on, and a delightful red candy that tastes like strawberries. After the market, we walked down to the Quattro Canti, or four corners, and then visited two of Palermo's biggest and most well-known theaters: Teatro Massimo and Teatro Politeama. Both theaters are painted in bright, sunny colors and perfectly showcase why art and opera are so important here. It's easy to see the influences from around the world here in Sicily. There appears to be an eclectic mix of people creating a more diverse population and culture.


After two days of eating typical Sicilian cuisine, I am wiped out. I don't think I can eat any more fired, heavy, decadent food. We'll see what the next Sicilian city has in store for us. On to Agrigento!